Nothing stalls a fence build like running out of pickets on Saturday afternoon — except maybe returning a mountain of extras on Monday. An accurate takeoff isn’t hard; it’s just a sequence. Here’s the method we walk customers through at the yard.
Step 1: Measure the Fence Line
Measure each run of fence separately and note where gates go. Total the runs, then subtract gate openings — gates get built from their own material list.
Step 2: Posts
Divide each run by your post spacing to get the number of sections, then add one post per run to close it out. Corners and gate posts are additions, not replacements. Remember posts need extra length for the portion set in the ground.
Step 3: Rails
Multiply the number of sections by rails per section — two or three horizontal rails is typical, with three giving pickets more support and a straighter fence over time.
Step 4: Pickets
Divide the fence length by picket width for side-by-side style. For board-on-board, the overlap means significantly more pickets per foot — tell us your overlap and we’ll do the math with you. Add a rot board along the bottom and cap/trim boards if your style includes them.
Step 5: Hardware and Overage
Count hinges, latches, and post hardware per gate, and figure fasteners off your picket and rail counts — we stock Simpson hardware and the right exterior fasteners for cedar. Then add a modest overage for cuts, culls, and mistakes; a few percent on pickets is cheap insurance.
Bring your sketch and measurements to either Dallas Cedar location and we’ll turn it into a complete material list — and deliver it to your house or jobsite if you’d rather not haul it.
Ready to get started? Visit Dallas Cedar at 4233 Forest Lane in Garland or 2110 W Division St in Arlington, or call us to talk through your material list. We deliver across the DFW metroplex.